Restaurang Sjögräs, Södermalm, Stockholm, Sweden **** (NOW CLOSED)

* * * CLOSED MARCH 2014 – NEW RESTAURATEUR TAKES OVER * * *

Q: What was it? A: The Södermalm district boasts 414 restaurants, but the culinary level is often mediocre, to put it mildly. Sjögräs was a very notable exception – a quality outpost.

The breadbox with various goodies.

It’s in the box! It’s in the breadbox with, (from right to left), dark rye bread, sour dough bread and crisp bread with fennel.

They don't put any strange substances in their Verneuil butter. It's just so gosh darned good!

This is the Extra-Fine Pasteurized Verneuil Butter 1002 “Creamy” from Britanny, France. Honestly, I could eat this all evening. Appetizer, main course and dessert.

The world famous bleak roe from Kalix roe on a purée of almond potatoes

A Swedish classic: Kalix bleak roe on purée of almond potatoes alongside some red onion and crumbs of dark rye bread.

Meursault Clos de la Barre of the 2008 vintage

Meursault Clos de la Barre of the 2008 vintage – quite a powerful chardonnay from Bourgogne to match the pike-perch.

The pike-perch kicked ass. The creme of artichoke kicked ass. It was just the champagne sauce that was a tad too sharp.

The pike-perch from the Lake Mälaren on a creme of artichoke and a little champagne sauce. Insert loud cry of appreciation here!

Not a punishment: Strawberry macaron with strawberry parfait and... strawberries.

Fancy a dessert? OK, here goes; strawberry macarons with strawberry parfait and… strawberries.

J. Bally, a very un-rhum-ish rhum from the island of Martinique.

J. Bally of the 1992 vintage. A very, very well behaved, aged rhum. You could literally give it to children, but on the other hand, please, don’t.

A culinary quality outpost.
”The Södermalm district is often described as young and creative with lots of personality.” it says on visitstockholm.com. I’ve been living in the very same district for 21 years. I wish the ”Trendy, charming and unique” vibe could be felt throughout all the 414 restaurants in the area. Pah! Creativity seems limited to defining the screen size for airing soccer games. In this sport bar/Irish pub infested area, the restaurant Sjögräs has, since the day of its opening in 1994, been a notable exception from the mediocre.

Always ambitious. Nowadays reliable.
In previous years, they where known to turn guests into guinea pigs. It was a wobbly experience, quality-wise. The fact that they don’t experiment as much anymore would normally feel a bit off-putting. Not so. Throughout my last few visits at Sjögräs, I’ve become increasingly impressed with the solid delivery from the kitchen. The sweet mildness of the pike-perch pictured above, cooked with outmost care to save its delicate texture… A fish to write home about!

The details are not the details.
Since 2010, Sjögräs has been among the chosen few to receive a Bib Gourmand-rating. I’m not surprised. They have refined their delivery substantially in every aspect. In terms of service they’ve also top-class these days. Even questions about little details, like butter, are taken seriously, with 5 kg of French Extra-Fine Pasteurized Verneuil 1002 “Creamy” from Brittany, being brought to the table.
Sandra also excels when it’s time to decide the post-dessert. The restaurant has more than 400 different types of rhum in their vaults. I decide to follow her recommendation for a J. Bally of the 1992 vintage. It’s classified as a rhum vieux, which means aged rhum. It did spend a two decades on used whiskey and bourbon casks and takes you on a quite oaky but restrained journey of elegance. A suitable way to finish a very good meal.

Sjögräs
Timmermansgatan 24
118 55 Stockholm
Sweden

+46-8-84 12 00

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Want to book a table at Sjögräs? Simply click here!

Want to stay somewhere near Sjögräs? Then my money would be on the Hotel Rival,
(5/5 in my book). Just click here to book it through TabletHotels.com

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