I never learned who he was, but he was dominating the classic surf spot Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz simply by being the best surfer around. As I prefer to give props to the right person, maybe you can help me out? Who is the surfer?
Steamer Lane is a stage, and the best surfers take their performance very seriously. This is Santa Cruz, CA. At Lighthouse Point, there’s always a large crowd of spectators present as the location takes you close to the action. If you’d ask around, not many would admit it, but the spectactors at this particular places are drawn here to see some blood. It’s the same mechanism that turns Formula 1 racing, downhill skiing and American football into huge spectator sports. Humans are a primitive bunch.
Bonus info: If you want to rub your back with the local surfers, try on the east side of the bathrooms.
Photographer: Hakan Nyberg (that would be me, then…).
Country: United States