Q: What is it? A: An outpost in the northernmost part of the Stockholm archipelago, where the quality-level of the food is in focus, (a novelty in the skerries, where cutting corners and relying on location alone seems to have been the norm for too long).
* * * UPDATE: On the 24th of June 2015, the Fejan restaurant was destroyed by fire, but the owners are in the process of rebuilding it. Meanwhile, they keep a limited business running – please visit their homepage for updates. * * *
You may not drop in by accident. But you should.
Fejan is a rather strange name, even for a Swede. It’s a small island in the northern archipelago that since long has been known as the outermost populated island before the open sea between Sweden and Åland. In the late 1800s, a quarantine station was established here to stop the cholera that was ravaging Europe. It’s safe to say that you wouldn’t just drop in by accident, especially not if you’re just visiting Sweden for a short time. If you have a chance, go here. This is a place that shouldn’t be missed.
The praise will start just about here.
First, I’d better make one thing clear: I’m not affiliated by the Fejans Krog. It’s a nice rustic place in the archipelago. After my first visit, two years ago, I thought just that: A nice place. But in January 2008 the restaurant was taken over by a couple of young and very ambitious restaurateurs. David Mattsson and his girlfriend Malin Jönsson decided to bring it up a few notches and they are doing just that, in a place once built to perform autopsies, (it’s a former quarantine station, remember?).
The Stockholm archipelago has 84 restaurants.
That was the number last time I counted. However, I can’t really count the times when I’ve been really disappointed in the skerries. It seems like the fantastic views and surroundings turn both chefs and the rest of the staff into lazy bums. Not in this case. The starter; a variation of duck with cured chanterelles and plums is the only course that fails to really impress. The second serving with Baltic Sea cod, blue mussels, bacon and potato creme knocks the entire group out. It’s possibly the best cooked fish I’ve ever had in a restaurant not boasting any Michelin stars.
It just goes on…
The kitchen will then deliver filét of lamb, reduction of rosemary and artichoke with is just… awesome. Some fine cheese of Swedish small-scale produce, (from the village of Skärvången in Jämtland and the nearby Väddö Gårdsmejeri), fig curd and bread paves the way for the dessert: Autumn apples with Italian meringue, walnuts and calvados ice cream with dried fruit. At that stage I was baffled and very, very impressed and so were my colleagues, of whom many are serious food afiçionados. No more words. Come here. Eat. Drink. It’s well worth the trip and I think it’s safe to say that you will also enjoy the view.
760 15 Gräddö
+46 176 430 42