Mar 16th, 2011 by Håkan
Q: What is it? A: A small temple of culinary excellence that will dazzle you. No doubt.
Had it been located in London or Paris, it would already have recieved its third star!
Officially Sweden’s best restaurant. No kidding.
Since Frantzén/Lindeberg opened on February the 1st 2008, I’ve been there four times as a guest. This is the second time I’ve tried to keep track of my own experience, documenting the food with my camera, (hence the headline above). With each time, my expectations have been raised. Each time, they’ve been met and exceeded. I’ve never had a better meal in Sweden. This is not a post. It is a love song. I’ll save most of the adjectives and let the images do most of the talking. Here we go.
You may choose from three different wine packages. This one was referred to as ”Best of the Best”. From the left: Chateau Rayas ”Pignan” 2003, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, followed by a Domaine Weinbach, Riesling Cuvée St. Catherine II, 2005 from Alsace, and finally a Domaine August Clape, Côte du Rhône Blanc, 2006. Not visible in this picture: Henriot, Brut Souverain Magnum S.A, Reims Champagne. Q: Any good? A: Great stuff!
The first part of the so called Prologue: Thing #1) Homemade air-cured meat. Thing #2) A cherry macaron with whipped foie gras. Thing #3) Cured cod, served on its dried skin with fresh roe from rainbow trout.
Second serving of the Prologue: To the left – a puré of carrot with salt baked beetroot, infused in its own juice, served with a bitter orange. In the middle – a tartar of lobster with an organic cream, seasoned with vanilla, red grapefruit and an emulsion of lavender honey. To the right: Porridge of parsnip seasoned with freeze dried coconut flakes with some crispy skin of chicken, dill and lime.
First the sourdough was on display in a box. Then, while serving the champagne, they baked the bread, serving it after the amuse bouches. The butter is homechurned. The butter to the right has been smoked.
This is beef of Swedish cow. It has been stripped and then cured for eight weeks. Here it’s served with its own melting cape of fat, herbs from the garden, thin slices of smoked eel, sourcream, caviar and some grinded duck liver.
Divers collected these Pecten jacobaeus near Hitra, an island southwest of Trondheim. Yes, it’s a quite large scallop. The divers then drove all the way to Stockholm to sell it. It’s served with virgin butter, a smoked mushroom and roe salt and some Swedish truffles from the island of Gotland.
A French toast, in Swedish better known as ”Poor Knights”. This is the de luxe version, served with an infusion of white soy and truffles, lime, onion and a finally a 100-year old vinegar, (that black blob to the right).
This review stops somewhere around here.
When writing this a few months after the visit, I still have vivid memories of some of the tastes. A visit to Frantzén/Lindeberg is like going on a crazy culinary rollercoaster ride where the designers of the ride are in full control. To this reviewer, it’s very clear why the restaurant has been awarded with two Michelin stars and why it was selected the best restaurant in Sweden by the White Guide. Now what? A third?
PS. Frantzen/Lindeberg gets copied! Read about the Austrian copy-cat chef here (in Swedish).
Lilla Nygatan 21
111 28 Stockholm