Mar 2nd, 2011 by Håkan
Q: What is it? A: An ambitious yet friendly restaurant place where you’ll worship meat in many forms and variations. Already good from the beginning, it has evolved into one of Stockholm’s very best restaurants.
Here’s one for all you carnivores out there:
Let’s start somewhere else: When Rolfs Kök opened in 1989, it quickly became the gold standard for a modern Swedish restaurant; an open kitchen, a very un-snobbish approach to cooking and a shaker-inspired interior. In 2003, the Rolf sold the restaurant to Johan Jureskog and Klas Ljungqvist. An already very good restaurant was taken to an even higher level and was selected for the Bib Gourmand list in 2006. As Johan and Klas took over the Allmänna Galleriet, they entered a different league – Rolfs Kök has 55 seats, their new restaurant has 120. In the previous Allmänna Galleriet, food was never in focus. That has now changed. Their focus becomes obvious from the very moment you enter: Meat.
Your dinner is hanging from a meat hook.
You see it when you’re still walking up the stairs; large chunks of meat, cured behind glass. This is a bold move in Sweden, were some 15% of the population between 15 and 24 years claim to be either vegetarian or vegan. Bar area to the left. Restaurant to the right. Service minded staff. The white tiling on the walls is from the 30s, when silverware was crafted here. It’s a raw industrial space that many an Art Director would sell his grandmother for. But more importantly, Johan Jureskog’s team of chefs delivers.
The word was out about the burger.
The much talked about burger is made from Mr. Jureskog’s secret recipe, (which involves some extra fat). On my first visit I tried the Porterhouse steak. It’s a massive house dry aged side of beef. It’s a dinner for two. It’s one of the five best pieces of meat I’ve had in Sweden. Along with some creamed spinach and a hash brown it’s just very simple and very… perfect. After that first visit I’ve followed the restaurant’s suggestions and therefore attacked a) the entrecôte on the bone with Caesar salad and baked potato, b) numerous burgers, c) Waguy-beef and d) (drumroll) the entrecôte ”Grand Cru”. It’s fair to say that the style is rather… rustic. But don’t confuse that with simple or sloppy. Visiting AG has been a pleasure throughout and these days the team has turned into a well-oiled operation, fully capable of handling 120 guests with a smile. In fact, they have elevated their game, even from the previously high level, and this consistent delivery places Restaurang AG in the very top of Stockholm’s restaurant rooster. There’s five of them up there. Five stars. And they’re well deserved.
S112 33 Stockholm, Sweden
+46-8-410 681 00
Open: Monday-Saturday 5.00 pm to midnight, Sunday closed.